Showing posts with label compost. Show all posts
Showing posts with label compost. Show all posts
Reader Question: Heavily Compacted Soil
Sean wrote in to ask a question about dealing with heavily compacted soil in his lawn.
"I purchased a soil probe last summer to test watering coverage and moil soil. Unfortunately the soil is so compacted that I couldn't get the probe into the ground more than 3-4". Lawn aeration and top dressing with compost have little to no effect. Should I remove existing turf, rototill in fresh compost and seed/sod or continue aeration and top dressing?"
Question
"I purchased a soil probe last summer to test watering coverage and moil soil. Unfortunately the soil is so compacted that I couldn't get the probe into the ground more than 3-4". Lawn aeration and top dressing with compost have little to no effect. Should I remove existing turf, rototill in fresh compost and seed/sod or continue aeration and top dressing?"
Organic Lawn Renovation: The Plan
Because I was planning on killing and reseeding parts of my lawn last year I didn't take as good care of those areas as I should have. I didn't do anything about the weeds and didn't water regularly. As a result the lawn in one section in particular has gotten very bad and it wasn't great to begin with.
Three sections will be renovated in total. Two are in decent shape but one of the sections requires a bit of regrading and I might as well reseed the other since they're in close proximity and I feel the grass should match.
For the past few weeks I've been gathering all the tools I'll need for a lawn renovation as well as finalizing the supplies and methods I'll be using.
Below you'll find my lawn renovation plan as well as pictures of my existing lawn and description of some of the issues I'm having.
Why Kill The Existing Lawn?
The lawn is old and over the years different types of grass seeds have been used which give the lawn an uneven appearance. Some of the grasses grow very fast while others hardly grow at all and there are a bunch of weeds in one section. There are also sections with depressions as well as bumps that need to be smoothed out. Additionally the soil is a little low in organic matter and the soil structure could use some improvement by adding compost.
It's easier to tackle all the issues by starting fresh with some new grass seed.
The Plan
Day 1
Tomorrow I start killing my existing lawn. I'll be using two different organic herbicides instead of RoundUp/Glyphosate which is normally used in this step. Each of my three sections will be split in half and so that I can compare the effectiveness of each in this process under different conditions.
I'll be using BurnOut II
from St Gabriel Organics and Nature's Avenger from Cutting Edge Formulations.These products work best with full sun and temperatures above 80 degrees. I was going to start today but tomorrow will be even hotter as will the rest of the weekend.
Day2
The weed killers start working within hours. Any areas that I had missed on Day 1 should be apparent and I can spot treat using the appropriate herbicide for that area.
Day 7
Unlike glyphosate based herbicides like RoundUp, these organic alternatives are not systemic and will not kill the roots. They only kill the leaves of the plant but without the leaves the rest of the plant is susceptible. If there is enough stored energy in the roots for some of the weeds and grasses to grow back I will re-spray with herbicide to kill any new growth as suggested by St Gabriel Labs.
Day 8-9
At this point the existing lawn should be sufficiently damaged and if necessary I'll mow the grass at my mower's lowest setting and bag the clippings to remove some of the debris and/or use my Ames True Temper Thatch Rake
to both clear plant debris and start cultivating the soil.Using a combination of tools including rakes and a Garden Weasel Cultivator
I'll start incorporating compost into the top of the soil, fertilize using an organic lawn fertilizer,correct grade issues and probably reshape the garden beds.My soil's pH appears to be fine in those areas but since the organic herbicides I'm using contain acids I'll recheck the pH and add some Fast Acting Lime if necessary.
Day 10
On Day 10 of the process I will put down new grass seed. My initial plan was to plant a good Kentucky Bluegrass mix but I've changed my mind and will be going with a Turf-Type Tall Fescue mix. Unless anything changes I'll be using Jonathan Green Black Beauty grass seed. There might be some better TTTF grass blends out there but there were a number of reasons why I decided to go with Black Beauty. One of the primary ones was that it's something I can find locally. TTTF doesn't spread like KBG does so every 2-4 years it might need to be overseeded if thin or bare spots develop. I decided it would be more convenient to use a seed I could find locally.
After seeding I'll follow an appropriate watering schedule. Depending on the weather the first week I might have to water lightly twice a day to keep the seeds moist for good germination. The second week I can probably cut down to once a day. After that I can slowly increase the watering times and decrease the watering frequency.
Existing Lawn Condition
Section 1
Section 1 is the largest as well as the worst section of the three. The soil structure is very poor, there is a wide mix of grasses including everything from fine fescue to tall fescue. This section is in full sun and gets little to no foot traffic.
Section 1 also has the worst weed problem. Weeds in this portion of the lawn include dutch white clover, wild violet, either purslane or prostrate pigweed, some dandelions, crabgrass, some veronica speedwell, something that looks like nimblewill and possibly goosegrass.
This section of lawn also has some issues with what I believe is red thread or some other type of disease which I've been able to successfully control with corn meal.
It gets little traffic and requires more water than I've been applying, especially this year, which caused the grass to suffer.
Section 2
Section 2 receives partial sun. It is shaded by a large tree for about 1/2 the day. The grass here is more consistent. I've been overseeding here regularly with a Kentucky Bluegrass Mix (Jonathan Green Sod Maker) and it normally looks good. There is a bit of crab grass at the edges but that's about it.
The area needs some serious regrading. Some areas are uneven and if I'm not careful get scalped by the mower.
The grass looks much better than the photo indicates but not as great as it usually because I haven't watered or fertilized as regularly as I normally would because of the renovation.
Section 3
This section was regraded and planted with a fine fescue mix because it receives little sun throughout the day. It has been slightly neglected because of the renovation plan but otherwise looks pretty good. The photo also doesn't look that great because of the mix of sun and shade throwing off the colors and brightness. (See my post on how to take great lawn photos for more info.) As with Section 2, Section 3 looks pretty good and just a little bit of care and a little reseeding would make it look great but because these sections can be seen at the same time I'd like more consistency. I also feel Black Beauty might do better in shade than fine fescues.
I'm excited to finally get this process started and will be posting updates as I go.
Reader Question: Converting To Organic
Linda asks:
I think I need to add something to the lawn to help dethatch naturally.and maybe help the soil. Would spreading a commercial packaged manure mixture be helpful? At 98 cents a bag I could cover the lawn with 30 bags.
Also would you suggest an application of ammonia sulfate in the Fall to help balance the ph from years of chemicals?
thanks! ;-)
There are a few different questions here and I'll answer them one at a time. This is general advice when converting to organic lawn care.
First, thatch isn't a bad thing to have in your lawn. It's when you have more than a 1/2" of thatch that it can be a problem. Take a spade or shovel and cut out a square of your lawn to inspect the profile and measure the thatch layer. If it's more than 1/2" then you'll want to do something about it.
The problem with thatch is that it can prevent air, water and nutrients from going down into the roots. There are two ways to resolve this problem. One is to mechanically dethatch, the other is to core aerate. I discussed aerating vs dethatching previously. Basically dethatching removes the thatch layer and aerating creates holes in the lawn that allow air, water, etc to penetrate into the root zone.
Soil microbes and other organisms in your soil such as earthworms will help break down the thatch but lawns that have had years of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides applied will have poor soil biology and likely soil compaction. Adding compost to the lawn will improve the soil biology as well as add organic matter in the soil.
Compost does a lot of great things to the lawn. It improves the soil structure, adds organic matter, helps relieve compaction, adds nutrients and enhances soil biology. It is the best thing you can add to your soil when converting from synthetics to organics. Some microbes found in soil and compost help break down the chemicals in the lawn from synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.
The EPA has published this information sheet on compost describing it's use for bioremediation, disease control and other issues. Compost was even effective in remediating soil that had explosives in it!
From what I've learned it's best to use a mix of compost from different sources. Compost from plant material and composted manure. I would personally go heavier with the plant based compost because if the composted manure is not composted completely it can cause problems.
30 bags of compost at I'm assuming 2 cubic feet per bag is 60 cu ft is over 2 yards. I think you'll be better off having that compost delivered in bulk. Find a local source of plant based compost that will deliver. Lay a tarp on your driveway for them to deposit it on so it doesn't create a mess. I haven't used one but I've been thinking a Bagster Dumpster in a Bag
might be good to use. Buy a few bags of composted manure and mix it in. A pitch fork works well but you can do it with a shovel too.
If you don't have a wheelbarrow, borrow, rent or buy one to help you distribute the compost and use a rake to spread it in. The Ames True Temper Kodiak Forged Level Head Rake
is a good rake for this purpose.
To figure out how much compost you'll need determine the square feet of your lawn area and how many inches of compost you'd like to apply. Use the following formula.
(square ft of lawn) X (inches of compost) / 12 / 27 = Yards of compost.
If you had 5000 sq ft of lawn area and you wanted to apply 1/2" of compost it would be:
5000 X .5 / 12 / 27 = 7.7 cubic yards of compost.
It's roughly 3/4 of a yard of compost per 1000 sq ft for every 1/4" of compost you want to apply.
To determine the square footage of your lawn you can use the property survey that's likely attached to your mortgage (or you can get it from your local tax assessor I think) and use that as a guide. You can even try downloading Google Earth and using the satellite images and measuring tools to measure your lawn but going out and taking direct measurements would be the best.
I wouldn't add anything to the soil to adjust the pH unless I knew what the pH was. Don't guess. Send a sample of your soil to get tested by your local university cooperative extension for analysis and use that information to adjust the pH of your soil. Most likely you'll need to add lime.
The soil report you receive will give you recommendations on nutrients in your soil but will most likely recommend synthetic fertilizer applications. You can use organics instead but will need to calculate how much fertilizer to apply. For example if they tell you your soil needs 1.5 lbs of potassium per 1,000 sq ft then you need to figure out how much of your organic fertilizer to apply to give you 1.5 lbs per 1k sq ft.
Right now is the best time to start the process.
1. Determine your soil pH either by sending a soil sample to your extension office or by using a consumer soil pH tester like the Luster Leaf Rapitest Mini Soil pH/Moisture Tester
. If you use the soil tester it's important that the soil is moist to get an accurate reading and you should test different locations and take an average.
2. If you have more than 1/2" of thatch I would dethatch the lawn. I don't have a large lawn so I use a manual dethatcher that also helps remove ground ivy and gives a good workout. :) If you have a larger area rent a gas powered dethatcher.
3. Whether you dethatch or not I would core aerate the lawn. Again, I have a small lawn and like to sweat so I use a Turf Hound manual aerator. Based on how much compost you're thinking of getting I assume you'd want to rent a core aerator. Many rental places will carry them. Make sure it's a core aerator and not a spike aerator. You'll want to run the aerator over your lawn multiple times in different directions. How many times you go over your lawn will depend on your model. You want to get at least 9 holes per sq ft but as many as 20 holes per square foot if your soil is very compacted or heavy clay. I'd shoot for at least 16. Leave the plugs on your lawn, don't rake them up.
4. Apply lime and organic fertilizer as needed. I've had good results with Espoma Bio-Tone Organic Starter Fertilizer. It has a good ratio of nutrients and contains beneficial microbes. Do not use corn gluten meal at this point if you plan on overseeding which I would.
5. Spread compost on your lawn. Get bulk compost delivered. If you can get a mix of composted plant material and composted manure that's your best bet. If not get the composted plant material and mix in some composted manure. Plain composted plant material is fine too. Because of the core aerating I would shoot for 1/2" of compost.
6. Spread a good quality grass seed over the lawn and water it as recommended to get good germination.
Starting next Spring use organic lawn fertilizers 3-4 times a year. Corn gluten meal
in the early spring and late summer, Ringer Lawn Restore
in late spring and mid fall would be a good star. Also using a pump sprayer (I like the Smith 2-Gallon Max Contractor Sprayer
) to apply soluable kelp and humic acid in late spring and a one or two times during the summer would be great. You can mix the kelp and humic acid and apply them at the same time.
Also read my mowing tips for a healthier lawn.
Hope this helps!
I think I need to add something to the lawn to help dethatch naturally.and maybe help the soil. Would spreading a commercial packaged manure mixture be helpful? At 98 cents a bag I could cover the lawn with 30 bags.
Also would you suggest an application of ammonia sulfate in the Fall to help balance the ph from years of chemicals?
thanks! ;-)
There are a few different questions here and I'll answer them one at a time. This is general advice when converting to organic lawn care.
Naturally Dethatching
First, thatch isn't a bad thing to have in your lawn. It's when you have more than a 1/2" of thatch that it can be a problem. Take a spade or shovel and cut out a square of your lawn to inspect the profile and measure the thatch layer. If it's more than 1/2" then you'll want to do something about it.
The problem with thatch is that it can prevent air, water and nutrients from going down into the roots. There are two ways to resolve this problem. One is to mechanically dethatch, the other is to core aerate. I discussed aerating vs dethatching previously. Basically dethatching removes the thatch layer and aerating creates holes in the lawn that allow air, water, etc to penetrate into the root zone.
Soil microbes and other organisms in your soil such as earthworms will help break down the thatch but lawns that have had years of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides applied will have poor soil biology and likely soil compaction. Adding compost to the lawn will improve the soil biology as well as add organic matter in the soil.
Adding Compost
Compost does a lot of great things to the lawn. It improves the soil structure, adds organic matter, helps relieve compaction, adds nutrients and enhances soil biology. It is the best thing you can add to your soil when converting from synthetics to organics. Some microbes found in soil and compost help break down the chemicals in the lawn from synthetic fertilizers and pesticides.
The EPA has published this information sheet on compost describing it's use for bioremediation, disease control and other issues. Compost was even effective in remediating soil that had explosives in it!
From what I've learned it's best to use a mix of compost from different sources. Compost from plant material and composted manure. I would personally go heavier with the plant based compost because if the composted manure is not composted completely it can cause problems.
30 bags of compost at I'm assuming 2 cubic feet per bag is 60 cu ft is over 2 yards. I think you'll be better off having that compost delivered in bulk. Find a local source of plant based compost that will deliver. Lay a tarp on your driveway for them to deposit it on so it doesn't create a mess. I haven't used one but I've been thinking a Bagster Dumpster in a Bag
might be good to use. Buy a few bags of composted manure and mix it in. A pitch fork works well but you can do it with a shovel too.If you don't have a wheelbarrow, borrow, rent or buy one to help you distribute the compost and use a rake to spread it in. The Ames True Temper Kodiak Forged Level Head Rake
is a good rake for this purpose.To figure out how much compost you'll need determine the square feet of your lawn area and how many inches of compost you'd like to apply. Use the following formula.
(square ft of lawn) X (inches of compost) / 12 / 27 = Yards of compost.
If you had 5000 sq ft of lawn area and you wanted to apply 1/2" of compost it would be:
5000 X .5 / 12 / 27 = 7.7 cubic yards of compost.
It's roughly 3/4 of a yard of compost per 1000 sq ft for every 1/4" of compost you want to apply.
To determine the square footage of your lawn you can use the property survey that's likely attached to your mortgage (or you can get it from your local tax assessor I think) and use that as a guide. You can even try downloading Google Earth and using the satellite images and measuring tools to measure your lawn but going out and taking direct measurements would be the best.
Soil PH
I wouldn't add anything to the soil to adjust the pH unless I knew what the pH was. Don't guess. Send a sample of your soil to get tested by your local university cooperative extension for analysis and use that information to adjust the pH of your soil. Most likely you'll need to add lime.
The soil report you receive will give you recommendations on nutrients in your soil but will most likely recommend synthetic fertilizer applications. You can use organics instead but will need to calculate how much fertilizer to apply. For example if they tell you your soil needs 1.5 lbs of potassium per 1,000 sq ft then you need to figure out how much of your organic fertilizer to apply to give you 1.5 lbs per 1k sq ft.
What I Would Do If I Were You
Right now is the best time to start the process.
1. Determine your soil pH either by sending a soil sample to your extension office or by using a consumer soil pH tester like the Luster Leaf Rapitest Mini Soil pH/Moisture Tester
. If you use the soil tester it's important that the soil is moist to get an accurate reading and you should test different locations and take an average.2. If you have more than 1/2" of thatch I would dethatch the lawn. I don't have a large lawn so I use a manual dethatcher that also helps remove ground ivy and gives a good workout. :) If you have a larger area rent a gas powered dethatcher.
3. Whether you dethatch or not I would core aerate the lawn. Again, I have a small lawn and like to sweat so I use a Turf Hound manual aerator. Based on how much compost you're thinking of getting I assume you'd want to rent a core aerator. Many rental places will carry them. Make sure it's a core aerator and not a spike aerator. You'll want to run the aerator over your lawn multiple times in different directions. How many times you go over your lawn will depend on your model. You want to get at least 9 holes per sq ft but as many as 20 holes per square foot if your soil is very compacted or heavy clay. I'd shoot for at least 16. Leave the plugs on your lawn, don't rake them up.
4. Apply lime and organic fertilizer as needed. I've had good results with Espoma Bio-Tone Organic Starter Fertilizer. It has a good ratio of nutrients and contains beneficial microbes. Do not use corn gluten meal at this point if you plan on overseeding which I would.
5. Spread compost on your lawn. Get bulk compost delivered. If you can get a mix of composted plant material and composted manure that's your best bet. If not get the composted plant material and mix in some composted manure. Plain composted plant material is fine too. Because of the core aerating I would shoot for 1/2" of compost.
6. Spread a good quality grass seed over the lawn and water it as recommended to get good germination.
Starting next Spring use organic lawn fertilizers 3-4 times a year. Corn gluten meal
in the early spring and late summer, Ringer Lawn Restore in late spring and mid fall would be a good star. Also using a pump sprayer (I like the Smith 2-Gallon Max Contractor Sprayer) to apply soluable kelp and humic acid in late spring and a one or two times during the summer would be great. You can mix the kelp and humic acid and apply them at the same time.Also read my mowing tips for a healthier lawn.
Hope this helps!
Screw it! I'm composting!
At least I hope I am. Because I started my fall lawn overseeding project late I ran into a problem. Leaves on an overseeded lawn. Normally I would just mulch mow leaves into the lawn but with the seedlings still small and fragile, they can't handle the mowing and leaving the leaves on the lawn would block the sunlight and air they need. After worrying about the grass seed germinating it finally started coming in.
I used my blower to concentrate the leaves in areas where I could rake without stepping on the lawn too much. I was careful to not disturb the soil and seedlings, just lightly comb the rake through the grass to remove the leaves. After seeing all the bags of leaves I had, it seemed like such a waste to put them out on the curb when they could be turned into a great soil ammendment for next year.
So I decided to learn about composting and determine what the best composter for me would be.
Maybe I shouldn't act like I'm completely new to composting, just using a different method. In previous years fall leaves get spread on the lawn, along with other plant debris from the vegetable garden, mowed to shreds, bagged and then spread over the garden beds as mulch along with grass clippings. This is the sheet composting method. By the next planting season the decomposed material is tilled into the soil. Even after doing that and mulching leaves into the lawn I still wound up putting a few bags to the curb. This year I decided to buy a bin and try hot composting. Because of the problems with tomato blight this year I figured the hot composting method might also help next years crop.
I previously commented on a compost bins review video I stumbled on which found that the best composters are the bin composters. The tumbler types didn't contain as much material or get as hot as the bins. While they may be prettier and easier to turn, I decided they just weren't worth the money for me.
The compost bin I decided on was the Geobin Composting System
from Presto. It is similar to the Presto bin composter featured in the video review which performed the best. Amazon had the best price I could find and I received my order 2 days after placing it and using the free shipping option. Two days is a lot quicker than it would take my procrastinating butt to go out and find one locally.
Price was a big factor. I didn't want to spend a lot and for less than $40 and free shipping the GeoBin composter looked very appealing. It will pay for itself after two batches compared to buying bagged compost. I was considering just piling everything up but I liked the idea of having everything contained.
Size was another issue. I don't have a lot of space and the GeoBin composter only takes up a maximum 4' diameter space. It is also adjustable in size. Presto recommends a size of 3' to 3.5' in diameter. I think I'll only be using it in the fall so being able to hose it off, roll it up and stick it on a shelf in the garage in the spring is just perfect for me. Another option might be to just reduce the size substantially and have a smaller bin in the spring/summer. It's a very versatile bin!
There were quite a few negative reviews on the GeoBin Composting System. Most of them were about the stakes breaking and not being long enough. Based on the reviews and the pictures, it seems they might have addressed at least part of the problem. The stakes I received are definately not the same seen in the picture with the yellow tabs that people were complaining about. What came in the box are what look to be normal green garden stakes. They don't dig in deep into the ground but the weight of the materials inside should keep it from blowing over, especially if assembled in it's widest setting. If it's really an issue, longer garden stakes can be purchased seperately at most garden centers for a couple of bucks each. You also probably already have a few stakes you aren't using over the winter like I do.
The bin sides are made of a very thick plastic sheet that seems like it will last a long time. The issues people had with the stakes seem like they can easily be resolved so I didn't hesitate to make the purchase.
The one drawback I can think of is that it doesn't seem quite sturdy enough to use the sides to leverage a pitchfork or other tool when you turn the compost. Something like a Yard Butler Compost Aerator
seems like a good tool to have to help aerate the compost in the bin. I'll see how it goes without one and buy one if I think I need it.
Assembling the GeoBin is pretty straight forward but the instructions could have been a little more detailed. So here's some tips in assembling the GeoBin Composting System that might help.
The bin comes rolled up and the plastic wants to keep that shape. When you first take it out of the box it may not want to cooperate. If it was earlier in the year I would unroll it on the patio on a sunny day to help it relax but the waather wasn't cooperating so I just unrolled it in a hallway for a few hours. This made it much easier to work with.
The GeoBin Composter comes with 6 bolts. They should be used 3 on each end. Think of a double breasted jacket. The nuts only need to be hand tightened. If you tighten them too much you might wind up breaking the plastic washers or stripping the threads on the plastic bolts.
Once it was assembled and staked into a corner of the backyard I didn't find it as offensive as I thought I would. It actually looks a bit sleek compared to other options such as chicken wire. Just make sure you line up the bolts properly so the sides stand straight and that the ground underneath is fairly flat.
Within a short period of time I was ready to start filling it up.
To help the material compost faster I shreaded up the leaves. Since I couldn't use the mower because of the new grass seed I remembered seeing a commercial leaf shreader that had a head like a string trimmer so I just used my Black & Decker NST2018 Cordless String Trimmer With Two Batteries
. I would take some leaves out of one bag and place them in an empty bag then stick the string trimmer in like a giant stick blender. It worked out pretty well. After shreadding, the volume was a lot less than before. After the second bag I realized I could just dump the bag into the GeoBin and shred them in there. The larger surface area meant less reaching and pulling up which made it go faster.
Right now the bin is filled mostly with leaves and thatch that I pulled out when overseeding and some plants from the garden. Once the lawn can be mowed I'll add grass clippings and the rest of the plant debris that I'll shred with the mower. In addition I'll be adding used coffee grounds from my own coffee maker and ones I pick up at Starbucks, vegetal and fruit peels, etc. I'm going to need a lot of "greens" to add nitrogen to make sure the pile heats up. Just in case I threw in a bit of liquid organic fertilizer to get get things started.
I used my blower to concentrate the leaves in areas where I could rake without stepping on the lawn too much. I was careful to not disturb the soil and seedlings, just lightly comb the rake through the grass to remove the leaves. After seeing all the bags of leaves I had, it seemed like such a waste to put them out on the curb when they could be turned into a great soil ammendment for next year.
So I decided to learn about composting and determine what the best composter for me would be.
Maybe I shouldn't act like I'm completely new to composting, just using a different method. In previous years fall leaves get spread on the lawn, along with other plant debris from the vegetable garden, mowed to shreds, bagged and then spread over the garden beds as mulch along with grass clippings. This is the sheet composting method. By the next planting season the decomposed material is tilled into the soil. Even after doing that and mulching leaves into the lawn I still wound up putting a few bags to the curb. This year I decided to buy a bin and try hot composting. Because of the problems with tomato blight this year I figured the hot composting method might also help next years crop.
I previously commented on a compost bins review video I stumbled on which found that the best composters are the bin composters. The tumbler types didn't contain as much material or get as hot as the bins. While they may be prettier and easier to turn, I decided they just weren't worth the money for me.
The compost bin I decided on was the Geobin Composting System
from Presto. It is similar to the Presto bin composter featured in the video review which performed the best. Amazon had the best price I could find and I received my order 2 days after placing it and using the free shipping option. Two days is a lot quicker than it would take my procrastinating butt to go out and find one locally.Price was a big factor. I didn't want to spend a lot and for less than $40 and free shipping the GeoBin composter looked very appealing. It will pay for itself after two batches compared to buying bagged compost. I was considering just piling everything up but I liked the idea of having everything contained.
Size was another issue. I don't have a lot of space and the GeoBin composter only takes up a maximum 4' diameter space. It is also adjustable in size. Presto recommends a size of 3' to 3.5' in diameter. I think I'll only be using it in the fall so being able to hose it off, roll it up and stick it on a shelf in the garage in the spring is just perfect for me. Another option might be to just reduce the size substantially and have a smaller bin in the spring/summer. It's a very versatile bin!
There were quite a few negative reviews on the GeoBin Composting System. Most of them were about the stakes breaking and not being long enough. Based on the reviews and the pictures, it seems they might have addressed at least part of the problem. The stakes I received are definately not the same seen in the picture with the yellow tabs that people were complaining about. What came in the box are what look to be normal green garden stakes. They don't dig in deep into the ground but the weight of the materials inside should keep it from blowing over, especially if assembled in it's widest setting. If it's really an issue, longer garden stakes can be purchased seperately at most garden centers for a couple of bucks each. You also probably already have a few stakes you aren't using over the winter like I do.
The bin sides are made of a very thick plastic sheet that seems like it will last a long time. The issues people had with the stakes seem like they can easily be resolved so I didn't hesitate to make the purchase.
The one drawback I can think of is that it doesn't seem quite sturdy enough to use the sides to leverage a pitchfork or other tool when you turn the compost. Something like a Yard Butler Compost Aerator
seems like a good tool to have to help aerate the compost in the bin. I'll see how it goes without one and buy one if I think I need it.Assembling the GeoBin is pretty straight forward but the instructions could have been a little more detailed. So here's some tips in assembling the GeoBin Composting System that might help.
The bin comes rolled up and the plastic wants to keep that shape. When you first take it out of the box it may not want to cooperate. If it was earlier in the year I would unroll it on the patio on a sunny day to help it relax but the waather wasn't cooperating so I just unrolled it in a hallway for a few hours. This made it much easier to work with.
The GeoBin Composter comes with 6 bolts. They should be used 3 on each end. Think of a double breasted jacket. The nuts only need to be hand tightened. If you tighten them too much you might wind up breaking the plastic washers or stripping the threads on the plastic bolts.
Once it was assembled and staked into a corner of the backyard I didn't find it as offensive as I thought I would. It actually looks a bit sleek compared to other options such as chicken wire. Just make sure you line up the bolts properly so the sides stand straight and that the ground underneath is fairly flat.
Within a short period of time I was ready to start filling it up.
To help the material compost faster I shreaded up the leaves. Since I couldn't use the mower because of the new grass seed I remembered seeing a commercial leaf shreader that had a head like a string trimmer so I just used my Black & Decker NST2018 Cordless String Trimmer With Two Batteries
. I would take some leaves out of one bag and place them in an empty bag then stick the string trimmer in like a giant stick blender. It worked out pretty well. After shreadding, the volume was a lot less than before. After the second bag I realized I could just dump the bag into the GeoBin and shred them in there. The larger surface area meant less reaching and pulling up which made it go faster.Right now the bin is filled mostly with leaves and thatch that I pulled out when overseeding and some plants from the garden. Once the lawn can be mowed I'll add grass clippings and the rest of the plant debris that I'll shred with the mower. In addition I'll be adding used coffee grounds from my own coffee maker and ones I pick up at Starbucks, vegetal and fruit peels, etc. I'm going to need a lot of "greens" to add nitrogen to make sure the pile heats up. Just in case I threw in a bit of liquid organic fertilizer to get get things started.
Is Compost Enough For My Lawn?
Some organic lawn care proponents and even some organic lawn service companies feel that all your lawn needs is compost and compost tea. Are they right?
I don't think anyone that is into organic gardening or organic lawn care dismiss the benefits of compost but is only using compost enough to get the best lawn you can? Well I'm not an expert on compost who has performed decades of research on compost but Abigail A. Maynard, PhD. of the Connecticut Agriculture Experiment Station is.
In 2000 Dr Maynard published a bulletin titled "Compost: The Process and Research" which is something everyone should read that wants to compost at home. It will tell you practically everything you need to know about making compost, leaf mold and using composted manure and municipal solid waste (stuff like Milorganite.)
The research was on vegetable gardens and crops which is not the same as topdressing your lawn with compost, however it is still important to read and I'll address some of the applications to turf along with links to other research specifically related to applying compost to lawns. The summary of Dr. Maynard's bulletin is below.
So in Dr. Maynard's research, she found that adding compost can be used to replace fertilizer but you'll get better results if you still apply fertilizer, even organic fertilizer in addition to compost. Also, you have to keep in mind that they were applying 1" of compost and tilling it into the soil. That's very different than the 1/4" to 1/3" of compost that is used to topdress lawns.
There is a reference in this feasibility study that mentions compost can be used to reduce fertilizer input in turf down to 30% but I can't find the reference. It seems to be from an interview and not directly from a study. Other research I have read indicates that golf courses topdressed monthly with compost can reduce lawn diseases.
Much of the compost in many areas is generated as the result of landfill restrictions on yard waste, mainly fall leaves. Municipalities are either required, or in some cases prefer to collect leaves and recycle them into compost rather than pay to send them to a landfill. Leaf compost is not very effective as a fertilizer. Composted manure provides extra nutrient value but may not be readily available.
One benefit of compost is the introduction or greater colonization of mycorrhizae which are a fungus that attach to the roots of plants, including grass, which helps them absorb available nutrients. You still need to have the nutrients in the soil and using just compost may not be enough.
My opinion after doing reviewing some of the available research is that compost is a great amendment to your lawn but unless you topdress multiple times a year and mulch your grass clippings back into the lawn you will still need to supplement with fertilizers, preferably organic. Even if your grass looks good with just compost and compost teas, it will likely look even better with the addition of supplemental organic fertilizer.
There are some drawbacks to compost topdressing as well. First, it can be expensive. You'll need 1 cubic yard of compost to topdress 1,000 sq ft of lawn to a depth of 1/3". Most people will need to have the compost delivered which can run around $50 per cubic yard. Many bulk compost dealers also have minimums for delivery. You can rent a pick up for the day but that will also run you about $50. You can make your own compost inexpensively but most people don't have the space or material to make the amount of compost they'll need.
Spreading compost is also not as easy as spreading fertilizer. Most DIY'ers dump their compost in piles then use a rake to spread it around. Commercial lawn care services use expensive topdressers to quickly and consistently apply compost. Something like the Spyker model 288 Spreader could be used if the compost is fine enough. This might require you to screen it yourself if you can't find good screened compost. The compost should also not be too wet. You'll probably need to refill the hopper about a dozen times to cover 1,000 sq ft. It's a good commercial grade spreader that you can use for spreading other materials. It is commercial grade and will last a long time but it is very expensive compared to the spreaders most homeowners use.
Top dressing with compost can also be messy and can be tracked into your home easily until it starts to work in and gets consumed by your microherd. It can also leave the lawn looking dirty until it's watered in or brushed clean. Composted manure that hasn't fully decomposed can smell.
The studies also seem to indicate that you can't just go from a synthetic lawn care program to just using compost. It may take a few years for your soil to adjust. Even if you didn't do anything to your lawn in the past, the effects of using only compost may take years to see fully.
Topdressing with compost once or twice a year will help your lawn in many ways. but in many cases it doesn't seem like it will be enough or practical.
I don't think anyone that is into organic gardening or organic lawn care dismiss the benefits of compost but is only using compost enough to get the best lawn you can? Well I'm not an expert on compost who has performed decades of research on compost but Abigail A. Maynard, PhD. of the Connecticut Agriculture Experiment Station is.
In 2000 Dr Maynard published a bulletin titled "Compost: The Process and Research" which is something everyone should read that wants to compost at home. It will tell you practically everything you need to know about making compost, leaf mold and using composted manure and municipal solid waste (stuff like Milorganite.)
The research was on vegetable gardens and crops which is not the same as topdressing your lawn with compost, however it is still important to read and I'll address some of the applications to turf along with links to other research specifically related to applying compost to lawns. The summary of Dr. Maynard's bulletin is below.
Using compost in the garden has many benefits. For most vegetables and cut flowers, recent research at The Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station has shown that fertilizer can often be eliminated when the soil is amended annually with 1 inch of leaf compost. However, optimum yields are obtained when leaf compost and some inorganic fertilizer are used, usually half the normal rate, and after 2 or 3 years of consecutive compost amendments. Optimum yields can also be achieved using compost and organic fertilizers but they are generally less effective, especially on sandy soils. For vegetables that demand higher amounts of nitrogen, a cover crop incorporated into the soil in addition to the leaf compost amendment may be necessary for optimum yields. Compost is most effective when applied in the spring before planting. For optimum results, leaf compost may be applied every year, especially in sandy soils, and can also be safely applied at higher rates if compost is available.
When using a manure based compost with a higher nitrogen content, application may be limited to 1-inch in three consecutive years to avoid nitrate leaching. Yields will not decrease if no compost is applied every fourth year. Application rates of greater than 1-inch with a manure based compost is not necessary and may cause excess nitrate to leach to the underlying ground water, especially in sandy soils.
As compost increases the water holding capacity of the soil, compost-amended soils take longer to warm in the spring. If the spring is cool and wet, early crops, such as peas and radishes, can have reduced yields on compost-amended soils because germination is delayed and the seeds eventually rot. Plant density can be improved by either treating the seeds with a fungicide or seeding at a heavier rate to compensate for seeds that rot.
Undecomposed leaves can also be used as a soil amendment. While there is usually no significant improvement in yields as compared to compost applications, there are virtually no detriments to soil or plants if undecomposed leaves are applied the previous fall. An application of 100% oak leaves or 100% maple leaves shows no adverse effects to soil or plants. A beneficial effect occurs as organic matter of the soil increases slowly if yearly applications occur.
Two inches of compost applied as a mulch are effective for weed control. While not completely eliminated, weeds will be reduced to numbers that can easily be controlled by hand. Control, however, is limited to 1 year.
So in Dr. Maynard's research, she found that adding compost can be used to replace fertilizer but you'll get better results if you still apply fertilizer, even organic fertilizer in addition to compost. Also, you have to keep in mind that they were applying 1" of compost and tilling it into the soil. That's very different than the 1/4" to 1/3" of compost that is used to topdress lawns.
There is a reference in this feasibility study that mentions compost can be used to reduce fertilizer input in turf down to 30% but I can't find the reference. It seems to be from an interview and not directly from a study. Other research I have read indicates that golf courses topdressed monthly with compost can reduce lawn diseases.
Much of the compost in many areas is generated as the result of landfill restrictions on yard waste, mainly fall leaves. Municipalities are either required, or in some cases prefer to collect leaves and recycle them into compost rather than pay to send them to a landfill. Leaf compost is not very effective as a fertilizer. Composted manure provides extra nutrient value but may not be readily available.
One benefit of compost is the introduction or greater colonization of mycorrhizae which are a fungus that attach to the roots of plants, including grass, which helps them absorb available nutrients. You still need to have the nutrients in the soil and using just compost may not be enough.
My opinion after doing reviewing some of the available research is that compost is a great amendment to your lawn but unless you topdress multiple times a year and mulch your grass clippings back into the lawn you will still need to supplement with fertilizers, preferably organic. Even if your grass looks good with just compost and compost teas, it will likely look even better with the addition of supplemental organic fertilizer.
There are some drawbacks to compost topdressing as well. First, it can be expensive. You'll need 1 cubic yard of compost to topdress 1,000 sq ft of lawn to a depth of 1/3". Most people will need to have the compost delivered which can run around $50 per cubic yard. Many bulk compost dealers also have minimums for delivery. You can rent a pick up for the day but that will also run you about $50. You can make your own compost inexpensively but most people don't have the space or material to make the amount of compost they'll need.
Spreading compost is also not as easy as spreading fertilizer. Most DIY'ers dump their compost in piles then use a rake to spread it around. Commercial lawn care services use expensive topdressers to quickly and consistently apply compost. Something like the Spyker model 288 Spreader could be used if the compost is fine enough. This might require you to screen it yourself if you can't find good screened compost. The compost should also not be too wet. You'll probably need to refill the hopper about a dozen times to cover 1,000 sq ft. It's a good commercial grade spreader that you can use for spreading other materials. It is commercial grade and will last a long time but it is very expensive compared to the spreaders most homeowners use.
Top dressing with compost can also be messy and can be tracked into your home easily until it starts to work in and gets consumed by your microherd. It can also leave the lawn looking dirty until it's watered in or brushed clean. Composted manure that hasn't fully decomposed can smell.
The studies also seem to indicate that you can't just go from a synthetic lawn care program to just using compost. It may take a few years for your soil to adjust. Even if you didn't do anything to your lawn in the past, the effects of using only compost may take years to see fully.
Topdressing with compost once or twice a year will help your lawn in many ways. but in many cases it doesn't seem like it will be enough or practical.
The Best Composter Is The Cheapest!
Yup, that's right! Those fancy compost tumblers that can cost hundreds of dollars didn't perform as well as a simple and affordable $40 composter according to a test of some popular home composters I found on youtube. (Video below). It got the hottest out of all the composters tested, likely due to it's better air circulation.
It's basic, it's easy to use (I got one shortly after writing this) and really cheap!
Geobin Composter
The Geobin Composting System is a simple to use composter from Presto Products. It's not exactly what was shown in the video but made from the same company. Seems like an updated design.
The Geobin 3' tall and you can adjust the diameter up to 4' but it's recommended to keep the diameter between 3-3.5'. It consists of a mesh plastic perimeter and stakes to hold it in place.
The Geobin is very similar to the homemade chicken wire and garden stake composters except it's a smaller mesh. This still provides good air circulation but restricts a lot of the sunlight from hitting the material which can lead to weed germination. This can be a problem with chicken wire compost bins too. Since it's made of durable plastic, you don't have to worry about anything rusting.
There is no bottom on the composting bin so your material will come in direct contact with the soil which will help microbes and even worms get in to speed up composting. When you aren't using it, you roll it up for easy storage.
The GeoBin composter is sold at home centers but it is currently cheaper to buy it from Amazon since the product qualifies for Free Super Saver Shipping. Since the sides of the composter roll up, it comes in a nice small package.
There are plastic poultry fence products you can purchase to make something similar. A 3' x 25' roll should be enough to make 2 compost bins. You'll also need some stakes to hold it in place. These 4' garden stakes are made of steel with a plastic coating. You should be able to drive them in pretty far to keep your bins in place. They come in an affordable pack of 20 so you should have some left over after making your compost bins.
One of the complaints of the GeoBin was that the stakes weren't quite long enough and they didn't hold on to the ground well. If your GeoBin falls over or moves easily, I think you can use these 10" tent stakes to grip onto the GeoBin mesh or maybe some garden staples which are cheaper but not as long. Drive them into the ground to help keep them from moving or blowing over in a strong wind. There are 10 in a pack. The included stakes can be used mainly to hold the sides up.
Since this isn't a compost tumbler, you're going to have to find another way to stir up the compost to help aerate it. They make a tool for that. It's called a compost turner or compost aerator.
The compost aerator has two wings that fold up as you push it down into the compost. As you pull it up, the wings spread out again to help you mix up your compost. Since the compost is already getting plenty of air through the design of the GeoBin composter, you only have to turn it every few weeks.
Another good product to have is a compost accelerator such as Ringer Compost Plus to help speed things along. This is an important component if you're new to organic lawn care and might have killed a lot of the necessary microbes by using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides in your garden. After you have a good batch of compost, you can use some to start your next batch without using an additive to your compost. There are opinions that this may not be necessary. My opinion is that a few bucks to make sure you have the right microorganisms in your first batch of compost seems like a good idea.
It seems like everyone is jumping on this "go green" bandwangon to try and make money with fancy equipment and compelling marketing. The reality is that people have been making and using compost before there were expensive compost tumblers.
What was odd was that the open compost bins got hotter than the enclosed compost tumblers. With them being open and getting more air you would think the opposite would be true but the heat comes from the microbial activity in the compost. Without sufficient air, you won't get good microbial activity.
WSJ's Wendy Bounds' Organic Lawn Makeover
Found this video on Youtube.com from Wall Street Journal reporter Wendy Bounds. She started using organic lawn care techniques and documented the results in this video clip.
Things didn't start out great but with a little bit of time, research and knowledgeable friends she was able to get an organic lawn..
Some of my thoughts on her organic weeding tools are posted after the video.
The Weed Hound she discussed for removing weeds is very popular. It is easy to use and gets the weeds out fast. Some people have claimed they get addicted to using the Weed Hound and start doing their neighbor's lawns when they run out of their own weeds from what some people are saying! So you might want to consider getting one as a gift to your neighbor :)
The Weed Twister also looks good as it gets the root out but needs a bit more work.
The Dandelion Terminator, which seemed to be Wendy's favorite, is no longer in production.
Their website states: "Sorry but due to technical problems, we have temporarily stopped sales." From a FAQ on the product it is clear that the Dandelion Terminator does not remove the root. It just breaks up the leaves and stems. Without removing the root, the weed will come back.
A better product to use would be the Weed Hound which gets the root out and doesn't take much more work. You also don't use electricity or need to have a drill to use it.
You'd have better success if you just reached down and grabbed the weed and pulled it by hand than using the Dandelion Terminator. You'll do the same thing, but sometimes you'll manage to get the root out too.
Things didn't start out great but with a little bit of time, research and knowledgeable friends she was able to get an organic lawn..
Some of my thoughts on her organic weeding tools are posted after the video.
The Weed Hound she discussed for removing weeds is very popular. It is easy to use and gets the weeds out fast. Some people have claimed they get addicted to using the Weed Hound and start doing their neighbor's lawns when they run out of their own weeds from what some people are saying! So you might want to consider getting one as a gift to your neighbor :)
The Weed Twister also looks good as it gets the root out but needs a bit more work.
The Dandelion Terminator, which seemed to be Wendy's favorite, is no longer in production.
Their website states: "Sorry but due to technical problems, we have temporarily stopped sales." From a FAQ on the product it is clear that the Dandelion Terminator does not remove the root. It just breaks up the leaves and stems. Without removing the root, the weed will come back.
A better product to use would be the Weed Hound which gets the root out and doesn't take much more work. You also don't use electricity or need to have a drill to use it.
You'd have better success if you just reached down and grabbed the weed and pulled it by hand than using the Dandelion Terminator. You'll do the same thing, but sometimes you'll manage to get the root out too.
Are composting bins necessary?
When you start learning about organic lawn care, one thing you're going to hear a lot about is compost. Compost, compost, compost! It has many uses but primarily is considered a soil conditioner, fertilizer and a mulch. Compost is simply decomposed organic matter.
The more you read the more you discover that there is no better compost than the compost you make yourself. Not only will you be creating a great amendment for your lawn and garden but you'll be doing your part to help the environment by reducing the amount of waste you send to the landfill.
I'm not going to get into the details of making compost, if you want more information you can view the links at the bottom of this post. The basics involve using the right materials at the correct ratios. Other than a little turning to aerate the mix and possibly adding water, there's not much to it.
Most people that compost, including large commercial operations, just throw everything into one big pile, turn it occasionally and possibly water it from time to time. So why would you need to spend hundreds of dollars on a commercial composter? The answer is you don't. If you just throw everything in a pile you can use a pitchfork, or the compost aerator (aka compost turner) pictured on the right to help make things easier. Without enough air, your compost can start to smell as anaerobic bacteria develop. The compost aerator seems like it would work better on a compost pile than a pitchfork, especially if you have it enclosed. It is reasonably priced.
So why do people spend so much on composters? I think there are a number of reasons and I can actually agree with some of them but I'm not sure if the reasons justify the cost for everyone. I was interested in compost bins primarily because I didn't know what to do with my grass clippings and I read that compost does wonders for a lawn. Turns out I didn't need a composter, I simply removed the bag off my mower based on advice I read online. Didn't even need to get a mulching blade. I haven't had any problems with clumping and it seems like it's working. The nice thing is I don't have to empty the bag, turn the compost, then spread it around. It all happens right in the lawn. This fall I'll see how mulching the leaves goes without a mulching blade. That might be a bit harder so I'll order one to be on the safe side. But mulching your fall leaves with your mower is a great way to add nutrients and organic matter to your lawn. So right there, the majority of the items I would have composted disappeared.
Reasons people buy composting bins:
- Having trouble making compost - They may have tried to make compost without a bin and haven't had much success. I think this is mainly due to not using the right ingredients in the right proportions and not properly tending the pile. A commercial composter may not fix all these problems.
- Find it difficult to turn - Turning compost isn't that hard or time consuming but some people may find it difficult or don't have time to do it twice a week. The compost turner I mentioned above should help. If you're composting a lot of material it may be heavy and some people may not be able to easily handle it.
- Don't have the skills to make their own - Making a compost bin isn't hard but some people just aren't very handy.
- Find them more attractive - I think that some people, especially around metropolitan areas, where neighbors are so close, are worried about how their backyards will look with a compost pile in it, or they just don't have the room. I can understand that to a degree, but many of the compost tumbers I have seen have not been all that attractive. The exceptions are the Urban Composter Tumbler and the Mantis ComposT-Twin which is by far the nicest looking one I've seen and looks to be easy to turn and has two compartments. The Mantis composter seems to address many of the concerns people might have, it is also the most expensive home composter I have seen.
- Speed - The more controlled environment you have, the faster you can decompose the organic matter and have good compost. This makes sense and the ability to easily aerate the compost may make people turn it more frequently. The Mantis composter claims to be able to make compost in 2 weeks and one review I've seen confirms it. One of the problems of making your own compost is making enough of it. If you can make compost this fast, that shouldn't be a problem.
- Temperature - Temperature is important in making good compost. It is hard to control temperature in a small compost heap. The high temperature also helps to kill weed seeds and possibly other potential problems that may end up in the bin.
- Smell and rodents - From what I've read, properly maintained compost should not smell or attract rodents. You need to be mindful of what you put in it and keep the right proportions of greens and browns. Also keep it aerated and do not compost diseased plant materials.
If you absolutely must have a compost tumbler, go with the two I mentioned above. They seem to give you the most bang for the buck.
Even though I've eliminated most of the items I'd want to compost in my yard by mulch mowing, I'm still considering composting. Right now I just throw the few items I have in a pile in a corner of the yard. It is very small but decomposes fairly quickly. In the fall, when I'll have a lot of garden waste from pruning and pulling the vegetable garden, I might consider composting the material instead of throwing them out. Since I plan on mulching most of the leaves directly into the lawn, I'm going to be short on browns. I've read that paper is good and I shred a decent amount of mail to give me a good balance. A good crosscut paper shredder is nice to have for privacy concerns. The cross cutting action creates smaller particles that will decompose faster. It may not be a big deal but I would also pull out the little plastic windows on envelopes before shredding.
Since I don't mind building things myself and I like to save money, I'm going to plan on making my own tumbler some day. It's a bit different than some of the other plans I've seen so I'll come back and post some more information. If I don't make a big one, I still might make a smaller one out of a 5-gallon bucket for smaller batches.
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