TestDIYOrganic

Found this video on Youtube.com from Wall Street Journal reporter Wendy Bounds. She started using organic lawn care techniques and documented the results in this video clip.



Things didn't start out great but with a little bit of time, research and knowledgeable friends she was able to get an organic lawn..



Some of my thoughts on her organic weeding tools are posted after the video.







The Weed Hound she discussed for removing weeds is very popular. It is easy to use and gets the weeds out fast. Some people have claimed they get addicted to using the Weed Hound and start doing their neighbor's lawns when they run out of their own weeds from what some people are saying! So you might want to consider getting one as a gift to your neighbor :)



The Weed Twister also looks good as it gets the root out but needs a bit more work.



The Dandelion Terminator, which seemed to be Wendy's favorite, is no longer in production.



Their website states: "Sorry but due to technical problems, we have temporarily stopped sales." From a FAQ on the product it is clear that the Dandelion Terminator does not remove the root. It just breaks up the leaves and stems. Without removing the root, the weed will come back.



A better product to use would be the Weed Hound which gets the root out and doesn't take much more work. You also don't use electricity or need to have a drill to use it.



You'd have better success if you just reached down and grabbed the weed and pulled it by hand than using the Dandelion Terminator. You'll do the same thing, but sometimes you'll manage to get the root out too.

That's a common question we all ask. For some information view the previous post on Low and No Cost Lawn Care where I discuss proper mowing and watering techniques.



I found a site that can help you answer the question of when to water your lawn in the Northeast. I've embedded it below for easy access. It should be pretty self explanatory.






It looks like it finds the weather station closest to the zip code you entered to get relevant weather data for your area. Then based on the amount of rainfall and evapotranspiration in your area, recommends the amount of water your lawn needs.



It doesn't seem to account for soil type, but it still seems to be a good general guide.

When you start learning about organic lawn care, one thing you're going to hear a lot about is compost. Compost, compost, compost! It has many uses but primarily is considered a soil conditioner, fertilizer and a mulch. Compost is simply decomposed organic matter.



The more you read the more you discover that there is no better compost than the compost you make yourself. Not only will you be creating a great amendment for your lawn and garden but you'll be doing your part to help the environment by reducing the amount of waste you send to the landfill.



I'm not going to get into the details of making compost, if you want more information you can view the links at the bottom of this post. The basics involve using the right materials at the correct ratios. Other than a little turning to aerate the mix and possibly adding water, there's not much to it.




Most people that compost, including large commercial operations, just throw everything into one big pile, turn it occasionally and possibly water it from time to time. So why would you need to spend hundreds of dollars on a commercial composter? The answer is you don't. If you just throw everything in a pile you can use a pitchfork, or the compost aerator (aka compost turner) pictured on the right to help make things easier. Without enough air, your compost can start to smell as anaerobic bacteria develop. The compost aerator seems like it would work better on a compost pile than a pitchfork, especially if you have it enclosed. It is reasonably priced.



So why do people spend so much on composters? I think there are a number of reasons and I can actually agree with some of them but I'm not sure if the reasons justify the cost for everyone. I was interested in compost bins primarily because I didn't know what to do with my grass clippings and I read that compost does wonders for a lawn. Turns out I didn't need a composter, I simply removed the bag off my mower based on advice I read online. Didn't even need to get a mulching blade. I haven't had any problems with clumping and it seems like it's working. The nice thing is I don't have to empty the bag, turn the compost, then spread it around. It all happens right in the lawn. This fall I'll see how mulching the leaves goes without a mulching blade. That might be a bit harder so I'll order one to be on the safe side. But mulching your fall leaves with your mower is a great way to add nutrients and organic matter to your lawn. So right there, the majority of the items I would have composted disappeared.



Reasons people buy composting bins:

• Having trouble making compost - They may have tried to make compost without a bin and haven't had much success. I think this is mainly due to not using the right ingredients in the right proportions and not properly tending the pile. A commercial composter may not fix all these problems.


• Find it difficult to turn - Turning compost isn't that hard or time consuming but some people may find it difficult or don't have time to do it twice a week. The compost turner I mentioned above should help. If you're composting a lot of material it may be heavy and some people may not be able to easily handle it.


• Don't have the skills to make their own - Making a compost bin isn't hard but some people just aren't very handy.


• Find them more attractive - I think that some people, especially around metropolitan areas, where neighbors are so close, are worried about how their backyards will look with a compost pile in it, or they just don't have the room. I can understand that to a degree, but many of the compost tumbers I have seen have not been all that attractive. The exceptions are the Urban Composter Tumbler and the Mantis ComposT-Twin which is by far the nicest looking one I've seen and looks to be easy to turn and has two compartments. The Mantis composter seems to address many of the concerns people might have, it is also the most expensive home composter I have seen.


• Speed - The more controlled environment you have, the faster you can decompose the organic matter and have good compost. This makes sense and the ability to easily aerate the compost may make people turn it more frequently. The Mantis composter claims to be able to make compost in 2 weeks and one review I've seen confirms it. One of the problems of making your own compost is making enough of it. If you can make compost this fast, that shouldn't be a problem.


• Temperature - Temperature is important in making good compost. It is hard to control temperature in a small compost heap. The high temperature also helps to kill weed seeds and possibly other potential problems that may end up in the bin.


• Smell and rodents - From what I've read, properly maintained compost should not smell or attract rodents. You need to be mindful of what you put in it and keep the right proportions of greens and browns. Also keep it aerated and do not compost diseased plant materials.

If you absolutely must have a compost tumbler, go with the two I mentioned above. They seem to give you the most bang for the buck.




Even though I've eliminated most of the items I'd want to compost in my yard by mulch mowing, I'm still considering composting. Right now I just throw the few items I have in a pile in a corner of the yard. It is very small but decomposes fairly quickly. In the fall, when I'll have a lot of garden waste from pruning and pulling the vegetable garden, I might consider composting the material instead of throwing them out. Since I plan on mulching most of the leaves directly into the lawn, I'm going to be short on browns. I've read that paper is good and I shred a decent amount of mail to give me a good balance. A good crosscut paper shredder is nice to have for privacy concerns. The cross cutting action creates smaller particles that will decompose faster. It may not be a big deal but I would also pull out the little plastic windows on envelopes before shredding.



Since I don't mind building things myself and I like to save money, I'm going to plan on making my own tumbler some day. It's a bit different than some of the other plans I've seen so I'll come back and post some more information. If I don't make a big one, I still might make a smaller one out of a 5-gallon bucket for smaller batches.



Related Links:

• Compost Uses on Wikipedia


• Composting on Wikipedia


• Rutgers Cooperative Extension Home Composting Fact Sheet (pdf)

I ran across a product called Superthrive that is marketed as a "Science Miracle" and "completely organic." What caught my attention was the $160 per gallon price tag as well as the 1950's looking package that reminded me of the types of ads I saw growing up the backs of magazines. You know, the X-Ray vision glasses, the Atlas lose weight program, Amazing Sea-Monkey's etc.



I wanted to find out what this stuff was and was it worth the price. There are a lot of items in the world of organic gardening and lawn care that seem overpriced and unnecessary. Could this be one of them?



Searching various forums it seems people have mixed feelings. Opinions range from wouldn't do with out it to calling it snake oil.



The product description reads:

Superthrive has been around since it won the only science and industry gold medal known to have been awarded at any official world's fair in 1940. Superthrive today is still unchallanged[sic] in its effective use as a plant stimulent[sic], containing 50 vitamins and hormones necessary for healthy plant growth. Superthrive is NOT a plant food, but should be used in conjunction with a good fertilizing regimen. It is used for plant heath and maintenance, stress reducer in transplanting and increasing flower blooms, fruit and vegetable production. Its uses are endless and most important it is completely ORGANIC in nature. Popular in Hydroponics, orchards, field crops, lawn care, seed germination. Gardeners can benefit by healthier fruit and vegetables, as well as flowers and landscape plants. Dealer inquiries are welcome.

Those seem to be some pretty strong claims. Well sort of. I'm always weary of products that claim to do certain things and then don't provide information regarding their ingredients and how they help. When I hear vague references to studies and a whole lot of anecdotal evidence, and miracle like claims, my scam detector starts beeping loudly. Especially when they charge so much for it.



It seems that you only need a few drops to mix into a gallon of water so most people won't need a full gallon to get the miraculous results claimed. The smallest size you can get is a 1/2 oz. bottle which runs for $3.20. That turns out to be around $820 per gallon. The pint size has the most reviews so lets assume that's the most popular size. At $30.99 per pint that's almost $250 per gallon.



In all that time you would have thought someone would have learned how to spell stimulant and unchallenged. Now, I'm not one to talk about grammar and typos. I make my fair share of mistakes and sometimes do a poor job proofreading. But if I was going to post a description of a product that sells for $160 a gallon on Amazon, I just might try and run it through a spellchecker at the very least. More likely I'd have one or two people proofread it too.



They don't claim their spelling skills help plants grow so lets examine what they do have to say.



They claim it contains "50 vitamins and hormones necessary for healthy plant growth". While the vitamins and hormones may be necessary for plant growth there is no indication that using Superthrive is necessary. Plants seem to be able to grow healthy without it. It is hard to examine the claim considering little is known about what these 50 vitamins and minerals are. The label only lists ".09% Vitamin B1; .048% 1-Napthyl acetic acid." Little else seems to be known about what is in the product. I noticed that they emphasized that it is "NOT a fertilizer". This might be because fertilizers are required to be registered. This involves disclosure of certain ingredients as well as testing.



I'm not an expert but I know when things sound fishy. So I'm going to check and see if Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott has anything to say on the subject. Dr. Chalker-Scott is the Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University. She is the Jamie Hyneman/Adam Savage of the Horticultural world, exposing popular myths. Luckily she covered this in her Myth reports. "Vitamin B-1 reduces transplant shock by stimulating new root growth"

Applying vitamin B-1, or thiamine, to root systems of whole plants does not stimulate root growth. This is a myth that refuses to die, though it has been repeatedly refuted in the scientific literature. ...

• Vitamin B-1, aka thiamine, does not reduce transplant shock or stimulate new root growth on plants outside the laboratory


• A nitrogen fertilizer is adequate for transplanting landscape plants; avoid use of “transplant fertilizers�? that contain phosphate


• Healthy plants will synthesize their own thiamine supply


• Healthy soils contain beneficial microbes that synthesize thiamine as well


• Difficult-to-transplant species may be aided by application of auxin-containing products in addition to nitrogen, but read the label and don’t add unnecessary and potentially harmful chemicals (this includes organics!)


• Adequate soil moisture is crucial for new root growth; be sure to irrigate new transplants frequently and use mulch to reduce evaporation

So much for being "unchallanged[sic]".

She also mentions Naphthylacetic acid, which is an auxin that can benefit root growth.

Naphthylacetic acid (NAA) is also a commonly used auxin and often the active ingredient in commercial preparations. NAA tends to be toxic to seedling root development, as it inhibits primary root growth and enhances lateral root growth. This latter activity may account for NAA’s success in regenerating roots of transplanted and root-pruned trees. Like IBA, NAA apparently suppresses crown growth, which also may redirect resources to the roots.

There are indications though that auxins may harm plants. If you're really interested read the whole document. Some forum posts indicated the use of Superthrive killed their plants while others have claimed it saved them. And there are pictures to prove both sides.



Bottom line, while Superthrive may have some benefits when it comes to transplanting, it seems like it's greatest ability is to seperate money from gardners by convincing them to mix it in with their watering, in my opinion.

So you've been reading up on proper lawn care, especially how to water your lawn and as much as you want to pamper your lawn, you just can't find time in your busy schedule to get up before the sun comes up to water your lawn. I know some people that prefer to water by hand, one of whom has an in-ground sprinkler system that he rarely uses. But that's not for everyone.



You might have consider an expensive irrigation system but for many, an in-ground irrigation system is not worth the expense and hassle. With the recent housing boom, many large, new homes have replaced the more modestly sized homes on lots surrounding metropolitan areas. The results of building these McMansions is that there is very little lawn area left.



If your lawn size does not justify the expense of adding an inground irrigation system, there are a number of options available to automate watering your lawn that don't involve any digging or plumbing. These sprinklers attach with standard garden hoses and there are timers to control them so you won't have to spend time with hose in hand.

Hose end sprinkler timers

Mechanical Timers

If you don't mind starting the watering process, but don't want to sit there the whole time, mechanical times are a very affordable option. You simply go out, turn the dial and your sprinklers will start running. You control the amount of time, or the number of gallons through the settings on the dial. Once the timer has run it's course, it will shut off.



The Gilmour 9200 Mechanical Sprinkler Timer pictured is a great choice and is available for less than $10 by clicking on the photo. Gilmour makes quality lawn and garden tools and accessories and when I've had to contact them with questions they were very helpful. I can't recommend them enough.



For it's price, this timer has some very nice features.

• Measure gallons or approximate minutes


• Dial can be set for automatic shut-off at any point up to 700 gallons or 4 hours


• Includes manual on/off settings


• Slow shut-off feature protects hose and plumbing from damage


• Attaches to faucet, hose or sprinkler


• Swivel nut for easy connection


• Minimum flow rate is 2 GPM for proper operation


• Flow rate varies with water source and sprinkler used


• Works with water pressure ranging from 15 PSI to 120 PSI


• May not work with small drip irrigation systems

The slow shut-off helps eliminate water hammer, that banging you hear sometimes when your washing machine shuts off or when the toilet is done filling. When a water fixture is shut off abruptly, it causes the rushing water to bang up against the valve, then rebound back into the pipes where they rattle if not secured properly. In some homes this can be very noisy, and if you're watering your lawn in the early morning, like you should do, it might affect a light sleeper.

Single Zone Digital Sprinkler Timers

The one problem with the mechanical timer is the need to turn the water on. Fortunately, there are programmable digital timers that will turn water your lawn without any intervention.


Gilmour's 9400 electronic sprinkler timer attaches to your exterior faucet and then you attach your house to the timer. There is no installation other than screwing it into place. The timer is also easily removable so that you can take it indoors when winter comes. The programming is pretty straight forward but I recommend you give the manual a good read first. I purchased this timer last season after reading many reviews. I have no complaints but make sure you check the batteries once in a while or they might die when the timer is on. A set of batteries should easily last you through one season.



Purchasing this timer and a couple of Gilmour sprinklers made a very big improvement in my lawn. Gilmour makes another lower cost version but I liked the flexibility that this timer gave for only a little more money. You can only run one zone through one hose with this timer. Depending on your water pressure, hose size and flow rate (gallons per minute) you might be able to run two or three sprinklers in series. Otherwise you might want to consider buying a second one or purchasing one of the multi-zone timers below.



Another option would be to set attach a Y-connector to the bottom of the timer. Program the timer to water each zone but before the next program starts, go and shut off the valve on one side of the Y valve and switch on the other. You can set the programs up to be a day apart so wen you leave your home in the morning, after the sprinklers are done, just remember to adjust the valves. If you're watering once a week per zone, you only need to spend the 15 seconds making the change 2 days a week.




Multi-zone digital sprinkler timers - If one zone doesn't do it for you, there are programmable timers that can control multiple garden hoses.



A popular model is the Orbit Yard Watering System. It can control up to 4 valves independently. The system comes with only 2 valves but the additional valves are only around $15 each. I was debating getting this timer or the Gilmour but wound up getting the Gilmour because some of the reviews weren't that great. Turns out some of the reviews might have not been all that correct. At the time, the additional valves were back-ordered so it seems to be very popular. I've been getting away with one timer but I would be happier with the ability to control more.



The issue I have though, is the more zones you have, the more hoses you have running around. In a lot of cases you can run them behind shrubs and other plantings to conceal them, but I think that after 2 or 3 hoses, it's time to consider an in-ground system.




I did not see the Claber Aquadue Duplo Dual Hose Water Timer #8410 when I was researching timers. The reviews are a little mixed but it has some very nice features. For one it is about the size and price of the Gilmour but can control 2 different zones/hoses.



One of the things I find most appealing, is that you can purchase an optional rain gauge for it. The Claber Automatic Rain Sensor for Aquadue Duplo Water Timer #90915 attaches to the timer and shuts it off in the event of rain so you don't waste water. When the water in the rain sensor evaporates it will resume the program. That's one of the shortfalls of the garden hose timers. While rain gauges are fairly common for in-ground sprinkler controllers, this is the only hose-end timer I've seen that has that option. Between the timer and the rain gauge, it's twice the cost of the Gilmour, but you get two zones and don't have to worry about shutting the timer off when it rains.



Sometimes, too much water can be as bad as too little water for your lawn and this looks like a great timer if it works as well as advertised.

Hose End Sprinklers

Hose end sprinklers attach with a normal garden hose. They are very affordable and easy to use. In conjunction with a timer you can get similar results as having an expensive in ground sprinkler system. I've been happy with the Gilmour products and would recommend them without hesitation. There are a number of different options to consider.

Impact Sprinklers

Impact sprinklers are very common and come in different sizes. They shoot a stream of water out as they rotate. There is an arm that moves in an out of the stream to make it pulse. They have a very distinctive sound when running. If you are considering an impulse sprinkler, I would recommend the metal ones over the plastic. For a small difference in price, you get a sturdier product that should last a long time.



The Gilmour Impact sprinklers have a number of different adjustments that can be made. First, the knob on the top controls the distance of the stream. Then there are two stops that when hit, make the sprinkler head change directions. This is useful if you don't need to cover a 360 degree circle. There is also a diffusion screw that protrudes into the stream of water to disperse it.





The sprinkler head can be purchased on it's own, or mounted on a spike or sled. The spike pokes directly into the soil. A sled sits on top of the lawn and can be easily moved to different locations.



Gilmour even makes an impulse sprinkler mounted on a sled with a built-in timer. The timer is similar to the manual timer discussed above. You have to start the timer manually, but it will shut off automatically after it has completed it's program. As with the other impulse sprinklers, this can be daisy chained, so you can attach another sprinkler in line with this one and use it's timer. Provided you have enough pressure and water flow to support two sprinklers.



One of the most unique sprinklers made by Gilmour is the Pattern Master Impulse Sprinkler. There is a ring that you can adjust up or down, that will control the distance the water stream travels. Since most lawns are not round, this allows you to set the sprinkler in your lawn and have it follow the area you want, without wasting water on patios or driveways or into your neighbor's yard.

Gear Driven Sprinklers

Gilmour calls their gear rotary sprinklers Turbo Rotor Sprinklers. They don't require as much pressure as impact sprinklers and I believe they put out more water. If I was considering impact vs gear drive sprinklers I might go with the gear driven ones. They are also quieter than the impact sprinklers.



Just like the Impact Sprinklers, they come available in a spike or sled base. The Gilmour ATR5TD Turbine Rotor Sprinkler w/ Built In Timer is a good option for someone looking for a rotary sprinkler on a sled base with timer all in one.

Oscillating Sprinklers

When people think of hose end sprinklers, oscillating sprinklers are what come into most people's minds. They have a bar with holes that flips back and forth watering a large area. they are portable and easy to use.



Gilmour's Pattern Master line includes an oscillator, which allows you to adjust the spray to fit irregular shaped yards.

For those that have been using synthetic fertilizers and pesticides for many years, the transition to organic lawn care might be tough.



The two work on different fundamental principles. With synthetics, you're feeding the lawn directly by applying nutrients. With organics you're feeding the soil and the microbial life which in turn feeds your lawn. These microorganisms (microherd) consist of beneficial bacteria, beneficial fungi and beneficial nematodes to name a few.



Synthetic fertilizers either kill, or make the soil inhospitable to your microherd and the result can be fairly sterile looking soil devoid of life.



Earthworms also do not do well in soils that have been chemically treated. The Greek philospher Aristotle had referred to earthworms as "the intestines of the earth." They play a very improtant part in healthy lawns and gardens.



Earthworms tunnel through the soil which helps push are and reduce compaction. They also eat organic matter and excrete rich humus which improves soil fertility. Worm castings can contain 40% more humus than the soil they live in. Worms also eat other soil particles along with organic matter, including very small stones. Through digestion, these particles are broken down into a very fine grit which makes the minerals they contain easier to be absorbed.



It's hard to see the other organisms without a microscope, but the earthworms should be easy to spot. If you see a lot of earthworms in your soil, chances are you have good soil. A soil test will also give you some other important information including organic matter content.



If you're lacking in organic matter, you can topdress your lawn by spreading a thin layer of good compost. This will also introduce some beneficial microorganisms. You can also purchase earthworms if your soil lacks them.



If you see your soil is very bad, it may take one or two seasons to see good results. You won't kill off your grass, but it may not look as good. The results will be worth it in the long run.

The quality of your soil is a big factor in growing a nice lawn. Hopefully you've stopped using synthetic chemicals in your lawn and have gone to a more natural, organic lawn care program.



So what makes good soil? Good pH, proper nutrients, texture, and organic matter are very important. To determine what's in your soil, it's best to send a sample to your local extension office for analysis. Most extension offices are run out of a university. Do a Google search to find one in your area.



Calling them or viewing their website will give you instructions on how to best take a sample and send it to them. Some have different levels of tests and the pricing varies by the complexity of the test as well as the extension office.



Along with your soil test report, you will receive recommendations on how to improve your soil. Most extension offices still think along the lines of synthetic fertilizers, but you can provide the same amendments by using organics.



Different extension offices and tests will give you different data, but below are the most common items that will be included in your test results.



This post will give you some information on how to tell if you have good soil or not and tips to improve it.

Texture

Unless you deal with soil frequently, you may not know how to classify your type of soil. Luckily your extension office will do this for you. Knowing what type of soil you have will be very helpful in determining how much and often you need to water. If you'd like to determine the type of soil you have, the quart jar soil test is a very easy and effective.

pH, Calcium and Magnesium.

Most grasses grow best when the pH of the soil is in the 6.5-7.0 range. Over time, due to environmental factors, the soil can become more acidic. To raise the pH of the soil you will need to add lime. The soil test should indicate how much lime to add. Lime also adds calcium to the soil. If you're soil is low in magnesium, you'll want to use dolomitic lime. If your pH is fine but you're low in calcium, you can add gypsum.

Calcium is an important for cell division and helps plants resist disease. Magnesium is important for photosynthesis.

Potassium

Potassium helps resist drought by reducing transpiration. It also strengthens leaf blades making it withstand traffic and other stress.

Phosphorus

Promotes strong root development, helps resist disease, and withstand environmental stress. It also is important for lawns going into winter.

Nitrogen

Important for grasses to create chlorophyll and give it a nice green color. Some extension offices will not perform a nitrogen test because nitrogen levels can change from week to week. It doesn't persist in the soil like other elements.

Organic Matter

Organic matter is normally the remains of your grass clippings or fall leaves. If your soil is low in organic matter you might want to topdress with compost.

photo by Pauline Eccles

There are a lot of things you can do to your lawn that will cost you little or no money and will have a big effect. All of them have to do with proper mowing and watering.

Lawn Mowing Tips

Mow High

Raise the deck of your mower so your grass blades are 3-4" high after you cut. There are many benefits for doing this that will help keep your grass healthier and weed free.



We all learned about photosynthesis in school. It is the process by which green plants convert light energy into chemical energy. Grass uses water and sunlight to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates that are used for growth. Photosynthesis is accomplished through the blade of the grass. The chlorophyll in the blades of the grass absorb the sunlight to perform photosynthesis. The more surface area in the blades, the more photosynthesis can occur.



Tall grass also helps shade the soil to prevent water from evaporating too quickly. Blocking the sun also helps prevent weed seeds from germinating and thriving. By shading the soil, the lawn will choke out a lot of weeds.



On golf courses and other sports fields where they are concerned about performance of the game, they need to cut the grass short in some areas. Most people don't need to worry about this in their lawns. If you really want to have a putting green on your lawn, you're going to have to work as hard as the turf managers do to keep it healthy.

Don't bag your clippings

If you leave your grass clippings on the lawn, you will be returning nutrients and moisture to your lawn. Mulching your clippings can return up to 20% of the nitrogen your lawn needs. The clippings will feed the organisms in your soil which in turn will provide your lawn with organic matter and nutrients. Be sure not to leave clumps of grass. If necessary go over the clumps to cut them further and disperse them. Clumps in your lawn can damage your lawn. If you frequently have to deal with clumps, you might need to mow your lawn more often.



Some people worry that this might cause thatch to build up in the lawn. This is not the case. The material in the blades decomposes quickly. Thatch is usually a result of too much fertilizer.



Another benefit is that more and more communities no longer allow grass clippings to be collected with normal household trash. This is true for a number of towns in New Jersey. Not having to deal with the mess of emptying a heavy bag full of clippings is also a plus.

Mulch mow your leaves in the fall

In the fall, instead of raking and bagging your leaves, you can just go over them with your mower to mulch them into the lawn. This will provide your lawn with some valuable nutrients and organic matter.

Never cut more than 1/3 the length of the blade

If you leave your grass uncut for too long and remove more than one third of the blade, you will stress your lawn and stunt or slow it's growth, including the roots. This will also keep your grass clippings from clumping. This may mean you have to mow more frequently at certain times of the year. If this is a problem, you might want to consider reseeding your lawn with slower growing, dwarf-type grass seed.

Never mow wet grass

Wet grass clumps more easily and can promote diseases to spread. Wet grass also doesn't cut as well and can leave the tips of your grass blades damaged and torn.

Keep your lawn mower blade sharp

A sharp blade produces a cleaner cut that heals quicker. If your mower blade is not sharp, you tear the grass and the tips will start to brown, leaving your lawn looking unhealthy, make it more vulnerable to disease and stunt it's growth. You should sharpen your blade once or twice a season depending how often you mow.



You may also want to consider a reel mower. They cut the grass with a scissor action. Many professional turf managers use expensive gas powered reel mowers to give their lawns that manicured look.

Mow in different directions

Years ago, when I first had to learn how to mow a lawn, my neighbor told me that I should mow in two directions each time I mow. I never really looked into it, I just did it. Recently, I've been reading about why this should be done. Mowing the same way each time will help the grass stand more erect instead because it's not dealing with the large forces from mowing in the same way each time. It seems you can alternate directions every other mowing instead of essentially mowing twice each time. In areas of my lawn where I can't really do this, the grass does look a bit flatter so I guess my neighbor was right.

Lawn Watering Tips

Proper lawn watering is one of the simplest things you can do to enhance the look of your lawn.

In the northeast, rain provides most of the water your lawn needs in the spring and fall. When the weather gets hotter and rainfall drops, you'll want to water your lawn more to keep it from going dormant. These tips may result in slightly more or slightly less water usage depending on your current schedule.

Water Deeply and Infrequently

Watering your grass when it needs it and only how much it needs it will help minimize weeds as well as help your lawn become more drought tolerant buy encouraging the roots to grow deeper.

I have written a more in-depth post on how and when to water your lawn which I suggest you read.

Water in the early morning

It's not good for plants, including your grass to have their leaves stay wet. This can promote diseases from fungus. When you water in the early morning, the blades will dry as the sun comes out.

You'll also lose less water to evaporation as the water will have time to soak into the soil before the sun comes up.

That's a question many of have probably asked. The short answer is some are and some aren't. The majority of the chemicals sold for lawn care have some risks associated with them and the their labels indicate precautions should be taken. At the very least there are concerns, enough that many places require warnings on lawns after a chemical treatment. We all want a nice looking lawn but why risk one's health when there are other options. Even if that risk is minor, how important is your lawn to justify that risk when there are other options?



There are many reasons to start using organic lawn care products.

• Environmentally friendly - A big concern if you live near a body of water or if your storm drains empty into water untreated.


• Better for your lawn - Grass existed and thrived before man came along and started spreading chemicals on it.


• Safe to use around children and animals - You don't have to worry about who is walking on your lawn and what they might get on their hands or in their mouth. Most synthetic fertilizers are easily absorbed through the skin as well.


• Little or no risk of burning - I think we've all done it at one time or another. We accidentally over apply in one area or spill a bit and the grass dies. With organics, there is not much risk of this.

I don't consider myself an environmentalist. Like most other people, I have my own problems to worry about. But I do care about doing things that will make my life and little environment better. Not using synthetic lawn fertilizers, herbicides and pesticides makes me feel better and gives me a good looking lawn.

Organics lawn care also seems to just make sense and is easy. I don't want to think about my lawn every day or worry about damaging it by trying to feed it. With an organic approach, you feed the soil and the soil feeds the lawn. With synthetics your giving your lawn it's food directly. In a healthy organic lawn, you will have a lot of microbial life (microherd) living in your soil in addition to earthworms and other beneficial insects. These organisms will help keep your lawn fed and happy. It is similar to taking vitamins versus eating a well balanced meal. Anyone doctor will tell you, you're better off doing the latter.



Many of us are proud of our lawns and don't want to see it die off from neglect. The truth is, it won't. I know many people that don't do anything more than mow their lawn. While they don't have fairway quality turf, they definitely have green grass. A few weeds and trouble spots mixed in, but it's grass nonetheless. With a little bit more care through occasional feeding and amending the soil, anyone can have a top quality lawn without worrying about what their children or pets might be running around in.



The purpose of this blog is to provide you with some information on affordable and easy ways to maintain your lawn without having to go crazy over it. There are people out there that spend almost every day thinking about their lawns. Don't think you have to be like that (not that there's anything wrong with that). Besides regular mowing you only need to do a few things a few times a year.



If you're not fertilizing your lawn at all, you will be surprised how much nicer it can look with just a little bit of care.



There are a lot of options out there and it may be confusing so I'm going to try and point out techniques and products that can help you out. Organics and other "Green" products have become very popular and a lot of people are trying to cash in on that. Being green shouldn't be very expensive. There's a lot you can do with a little. In fact some of the things you can do don't cost you anything.



Below is a video from Discovery-News.com with Paul Tukey, founder of SafeLawns.org, who started using organic products after suffering from acute chemical sensitivity (aka acute pesticide sensitivity) after running a landscaping businesses that used synthetic fertilizers.






Related Links: Research from SafeLawns.org