TestDIYOrganic

I don't know what came over me but a few years ago I got it stuck in my head that I had to have plastic lawn edging. For some reason that little tube of black separating the green lawn from the mulch just looked right to me. It made sense, it would keep the grass from growing in the beds and it would keep the mulch from spilling over into the lawn. Sounds good right? Wrong!



The problem with almost any type of landscape edging in areas that experience cold winters is that it can pull up if not properly installed. While that little black strip looked good to me, seeing a big black, grey, brown, torn strip of plastic sticking out from the lawn after the frost heaved it up doesn't quite have the same appeal.



I'm a bit compulsive when it comes to buying and installing things that are meant to be in place for years so I read everything I could about landscape edging, went out to look at different brands and models and learned how to properly install it.

If You Insist On Installing Landscape Edging

If there's no talking you out of it this is what I learned

• You need a landscape edging that has a flange to help prevent it from lifting up. 


• The edging should be at least 5" tall. 


• You also want to use the 8-Inch Metal Garden Stakes not the plastic ones. The 


• edging should be stiff not floppy. It should be the type that needs to sit out in the sun for a little bit to warm it up so that you can manage it easier.

The three landscape edgings I felt would be the best choice were Black Diamond Edging, Valley View PRO-20 and Master Mark Deep Edge.



I got lured down this path when I saw some cheap edging for $20 for 50'. Figured I could do the project cheap in a few hours. Not as cheap as I thought if I wanted to do it right, but not that expensive either if you really like the look.

How To Edge Landscape Beds

You know, I really feel stupid for even considering installing landscape edging in the first place. My flower beds and shrub beds never had a problem with my grass growing into it. For years I didn't even mulch the beds but I got tired of weeding as much. I was nervous about adding mulch to the beds without edging but the cedar mulch I use does a good job of staying in place and I don't have any problems.< br/>


They way I edge my lawns is to make a V-shaped groove at the edge as shown below.

Step 1: Preparation

If you already have mulch in your beds use a rake to push it back away from the edge to help keep it clean and allow you to see what you're doing.



If this is a new edge, plan out where you want your edge to be and mark the lines to be cut.

Step 2: Vertical Cut

First you make the vertical cut which should be around 4-5" deep into the soil. Past the grass and thatch layer. This cut defines your lawn edge and is the important bit that keeps your lawn from growing into your flower beds.



To make this cut I used to use a garden spade. I'm partial to the Fiskars 9667 Garden Spade or the Ames True Temper Pony Garden Spade if you plan on using a spade frequently and are willing to pay a little more.



Now that I have a Black and Decker LE 750 edger I use that. The curb guide lifts up into the body and allows me to cut slits into the grass. Very handy.

Step 3: The Angled Cut

Now you need to create an air gap. If all you did was create a slit, it would heal over time and the grass would spread.



To remove the cut side of the grass and dirt I use a hoe like the one pictured to the right. It has a mattock head on one side and a two prong weeder on the other.



I just slowly walk backwards and scrape up the cut side leaving a bit of an angle going up to the beds. The angle of the slope isn't that important and you're probably not going to be able to get a precise angle no matter how hard you try.



If you have a lot of room to work with and have large beds planned you can create dramatic looking beds with long slopes that are higher than the lawn.

Step 4: Clean Up

Clean up the area you just edged. Go over it to make sure the edge looks straight and is deep enough in all areas. Find a suitable location to  move the dirt and cuttings to.

Step 5: Mulch

Now with your edge complete it's time to add the mulch. You want to add mulch right up to the vertical cut line to prevent weeds from growing in the exposed soil near the edge from invading your lawn. The mulch should at least come up to the thatch layer.



Before adding the mulch you can use a landscape fabric to help block weeds further or you can do what I did and just lay cardboard down before you put the mulch.




When the mulch is even with the thatch layer it gives the wheels of your mower a nice area to ride on but I also like the look when the mulch is almost even with the grass height. Do whatever looks best to you in your garden.

Whenever possible I like to use electric lawn power tools because maintaining multiple small engines and having to deal with storing extra gas is a pain but dealing with power cords can be a hassle too. Thankfully cordless outdoor power tools have gotten better over the years.



After using a cordless grass trimmer I feel comfortable recommending them to others. In this article you'll find my thoughts regarding their use and benefits.

Cordless Trimmers Are Underpowered

Battery powered trimmers are not as powerful as either good corded trimmers or good gas powered trimmers. All tools have pros and cons and as long as you understand the limitations of cordless trimmers you'll enjoy using them.



I own a Black & Decker NST2018 Grass Hog 12-Inch 18-Volt Cordless String Trimmer which I really love. On a freshly charged battery it has enough power to touch up the edges of my lawn, trim up against walls, around posts and remove weeds from cracks in concrete. Black & Decker has updated the model and the new version is the Black & Decker NST2118






An 18v trimmer is the minimum you should consider to get a decent amount of power. If I were buying a new trimmer today I'd either get the Black & Decker LCC220 20-Volt Max Trimmer and Sweeper Combo Kit because it comes with the cordless blower for the same price as the trimmer alone or the Toro 51486 Cordless 12-Inch 24-Volt Lithium-Ion Electric Trimmer/Edger because the head rotates and includes a wheel guide so it can be used like a stick edger. The Toro 51486 is similar to the WORX GT WG150.1 in that regard except it's more powerful. The walk behild design of the Toro makes it easier to edge along walkways that are right up against buildings compared to the Black & Decker where you have to hold the shaft perpendicular to the edge.

Cordless Trimmer Battery Life

I've been using my cordless trimmer for over 2 years now and the batteries are still running fine. I get around 10 minutes per battery. Each battery is enough to do around 400 linear feet of trimming. The battery will run longer than that but after about 10 minutes power is dramatically reduced to the point where trimming becomes very slow.



The 18v NiCad batteries seem to have rapid self discharge. If I leave the batteries for a few days not charging I don't get the most battery life out of them. To get the most power out of my cordless trimmer I find that it's best to put the batteries in the charger overnight right after use. Then 2 nights before I'm going to mow the lawn I recharge one battery overnight. The following day I recharge the 2nd battery and leave it in the charger until I'm ready to use. Before I start mowing the lawn I swap batteries in the charger to top off the 2nd battery in case I need it.



The Li-ION battery technology in the Black & Decker LCC220 and Toro 51486 should have improved battery performance. I have a cordless Li-ION drill which I don't use frequently and the battery doesn't seem to drain as fast when not in use. Even months after being left off the charger the drill starts right up. Li-ION batteries also have a different power curve. They provide almost the same amount of power during use. When the battery doesn't have enough power it just stops, unlike NiCad batteries which just slowly become less powerful.

String Trimmers Are Not Edgers

I previously wrote about String Trimmers vs Edgers explaining why it's best to use an edger instead of trying to use a string trimmer as an edger. String trimmers don't give as straight or clean results.



For edging along my driveway and walkways I use a Black & Decker LE750 Edge Hog about once a month. Because it's corded it takes a little longer to use but it also is more powerful. The metal edging blade also cuts through overgrown edges easier than a string trimmer. Cordless string trimmers just aren't powerful enough to give the same results.



The cordless trimmer does a great job of maintaining the edge after every mowing. It will cut the grass that's overgrown but it won't dig into the soil like the edger does. I don't like having to drag out the cord every time I mow so I use the string trimmer.

Conclusion

I was really woried about using a cordless string trimmer but I am so happy I decided to purchase one. My last trimmer was a corded electric model and I wouldn't use it as frequently. With a cordless trimmer I don't find it a hassle to use it every time I mow.



If you use your codlress trimmer as a trimmer and to maintain your lawn's edge in between using an corded or gas edger every few weeks it will make maintaining your lawn much easier.



The Black & Decker NST2118 is a newer version of the trimmer I have which I've been very happy with for over 2 years and for some reason is even cheaper than the old model! If you don't mind spending a little more go with the Black & Decker LCC220 20-Volt Max Trimmer and Sweeper Combo Kit which uses a more powerful lithium ion battery and includes a cordless blower or for a little more go with the Toro 51486 Cordless 12-Inch 24-Volt Lithium-Ion Electric Trimmer/Edger if you don't care about the blower and want a trimmer whos head rotates and can be used as a walk behind edger.

Following these tips will help keep your grass looking it's best. This isn't about creating an even surface or making perfect stripes in your lawn. It's about keep your lawn thick, green and free of weeds and disease.



Every little thing you do to your lawn can have a tremendous impact on the appearance of your lawn. Mowing is no exception and sometimes poor mowing can really hurt your curb appeal.



The following tips are easy to implement and will improve the look and health of your lawn.

Proper Mowing Height

Grass is just like any other plant in that it needs sunlight to create food through photosynthesis. It is the green blade of grass where photosynthesis occurs. The longer the blade, the more area available for photosynthesis. Tall grass also help shade the soil to keep it from drying out too fast and blocks sunlight from shorter weeds that have recently germinated.



Cool season grasses that are the norm in the this region can be mowed high, around 2.5" but you can usually go higher with good results as long as the grass gets enough water. Generally, higher is better so feel free to try setting your mower to the highest setting it can go.



Also keep in mind that many mowers come with the wheels set at the lowest setting to make them more compact for packaging. Don't just assume it's factory set at that height for any other reason. Your owner's manual should have told you this and with a piece of equipment that is powered by explosions and spins a heavy metal blade thousands of times per minute, it's a good idea to read the manual.

Don't Let Your Grass Get Too Long

Have you ever let your grass grow too long? Maybe you were on vacation, there was a lot of rain or you applied too much fertilizer. Except for the length and lack of uniformity in height, the grass looks lush with a nice green color. When you're done mowing it looks dull and has brown patches.



Part of the reason is that when the grass grows tall, sunlight doesn't get to the bottom of the blade. The grass plant will concentrate it's photosynthesis efforts on the upper part of the blade where it does get sun. No photosynthesis, no green. When you cut off the grass you'll be cutting down into that area, exposing the hay colored parts of the grass.



When the grass grows too high, it also reduces air circulation near the ground. The moisture and poor air circulation creates an environment where lawn diseases (fungus) can thrive. Your soil likely contains the fungus but as long as it's healthy, it can usually resist it. When conditions are ideal, the disease can overtake the lawn.



The recommendation is to never cut more than 1/3 of the height of the grass in any one mowing. You accomplish this by mowing frequently. If you keep your lawn at 3" you should cut it when it gets to 4.5".

Don't Mow Wet Grass. Wait 24 Hours After Mowing To Water.

There are a number of reasons why you shouldn't mow your grass when it's wet. The grass grass will clump more when the blades are wet and it will also put more strain on your mower. Walking on wet soil will also compact it.



Mowing your lawn also injures the grass. If you're using a reel mower that cuts the grass cleaner the damage to the tips of your grass will be less but most people use a rotary mower. The tip takes about a day to heal and until then is more susceptible to disease. Many lawn disease travel through water so it's best to keep the lawn dry until it heals.

Mow In Different Directions

When you expose grass to the same force each time, it will start to lean in the direction of that force. You can see this effect in striped lawns. Stripes are achieved by using a roller to push the grass down in one direction and then the other direction on the next row. You'll notice that even if you don't use a roller, you'll still have stripes because grass doesn't recover that fast from that type of force. Normal mowing provides enough force to cause grass to lean even with out a roller. You may even see swirl patterns.



To counteract this, you should mow your lawn in different directions each time you mow. Go north to south and the next mowing go east to west. You should also try to alternate where you start. So if you start in one corner going north, try to mow that area so that line gets mowed going south.



Some people even mow both north to south and east to west each mowing.

Use A Sharp Mower Blade

A sharp mower blade leaves a nice clean edge while a dull blade tears the tip of the grass. Don't just assume that your blade is sharp because it cuts grass. Most anything spinning at 3,500 RPM will cut grass. Occasionally look at your grass to see if the tips are brown, torn, split or show any other signs of damage that indicate your blade isn't sharp enough.



When the tips of the grass are damaged they take longer to heal and are more susceptible to disease. The damaged tips also dry out the grass faster requiring more water.



Keeping your mower blade sharp is one of the best things you can do for your lawn. Many people neglect this. I have to admit that before I started learning about proper lawn care my mower blade hadn't been sharpened for years.



You can bring your mower in for service, remove the blade and bring it to get sharpened or you can learn to sharpen it yourself. When removing your blade, or sharpening it in place, make sure to follow the safety procedures in your owner's manual.

How To Sharpen A Mower Blade

There are a number of tools you can use to sharpen a lawn mower blade yourself. The important things to keep in mind are to get the correct angle and make sure the blade is balanced. If your mower blade isn't balanced it will wobble and can damage your mower. You don't want your blade to be razor sharp. A thin edge isn't necessary and will dull faster.



You can use a bench grinder to sharpen your mower blade. Bench grinders make quick work of sharpening your mower blade. They are easy to use but with any power tool, make sure to read, understand and follow the safety instructions provided with your manual.



Factory Reconditioned bench grinders, like the one pictured to the left, are very affordable and can be used for other purposes. I've always had good luck with factory reconditioned power tools. They are great for DIY'ers that want quality tools at an affordable price. You can also check out other reconditioned tools from CPO by clicking on these links:








If you don't have or want to purchase a bench grinder, there is a very effective tool that you can use on a power drill. It comes with a sharpener and a balancer. After you remove the spark plug and do whatever else your mower needs to make it safe to mess around underneath the mower deck, you can use a board to keep your mower blade from turning and use the sharpener to touch up your blade without removing it.




It has a guide to get the right angle but you still need to pay attention to keep it aligned.



Another option if you have a Dremel is to use the lawn mower sharpening attachment. If you have a thick blade you might have trouble getting it in and it can be slow gowing. I've sharpened a blade with a Dremel without the attachment but it can be difficult to get the right angle. I used the Dremel to get the blade close and then followed up with a flat file.



Or if that all seems like too much hassle, you can always just buy a new lawn mower blade.

Gator Mulching Blade

Last year I purchased a Gator Mulching Blade to replace the stock mower blade which wasn't a mulching blade. The Gator blades get very good reviews and seem to be used by a number of professionals. The main reason I chose a Gator mulcher was the reports I've seen that indicate the blade needs to be sharpened less frequently because it uses a harder steel than most OEM blades.



The following video is the best I found to teach you how to sharpen your lawn mower blade. Don't know if I'm too crazy about spreading used motor oil on your mower deck though.

Raking leaves can be a big pain. Once you get a nice pile, a gust always comes along and messes it up.

Then you have to worry about what to do with them. If you have a large property and a compost pile or tumbler, that's a good use for them, but you also need to have an adequate amount of greeen material in your pile to offset the browns.



If you live in a town with a leaf collection program, you rake it out onto the street or bag it and wait for pick up. The leaves can disrupt curb side parking and create a mess when it rains.



A better solution, just mow over them. The mower will crush them into little pieces and over time they will decompose into material that will help feed your lawn. It's like composting in your lawn. You save the trip to and from the composter as well as the effort in turning.





You don't even need a special mulchinig mower or mulching blade. I searched online and found a few people suggesting that you can mulch mow with a regular blade. This year I decided to sharpen my blade and stop using my bag. That way the grass clippings go back into the soil.



This fall, I did the same with the leaves. Instead of raking up the leaves I just mowed them over. The leaves were a couple of inches high but the leave fragments that were left behind were only scattered among the blades.



I didn't just do the leaves either. As you're trimming back your plants just throw them on the lawn and mow them in too.



Some things you should should keep in mind:

• Make sure the leaves are dry. Wet leaves clump up and don't chop easily.


• Use a rake to spread the leaves around so you don't have spots that are too dense.


• While spreading around, pick up any twigs, branches, pine cones or other debris.


• If necessary, make two passes, one on the high setting the other on a lower setting.


• Go slowly to chop the leaves up finely.


• Make sure you're blade is sharp.

The chopped up leaves should decompose quickly and no longer be noticable. Soon enough, snow will cover your lawn anyway.

Found this video on Youtube.com from Wall Street Journal reporter Wendy Bounds. She started using organic lawn care techniques and documented the results in this video clip.



Things didn't start out great but with a little bit of time, research and knowledgeable friends she was able to get an organic lawn..



Some of my thoughts on her organic weeding tools are posted after the video.







The Weed Hound she discussed for removing weeds is very popular. It is easy to use and gets the weeds out fast. Some people have claimed they get addicted to using the Weed Hound and start doing their neighbor's lawns when they run out of their own weeds from what some people are saying! So you might want to consider getting one as a gift to your neighbor :)



The Weed Twister also looks good as it gets the root out but needs a bit more work.



The Dandelion Terminator, which seemed to be Wendy's favorite, is no longer in production.



Their website states: "Sorry but due to technical problems, we have temporarily stopped sales." From a FAQ on the product it is clear that the Dandelion Terminator does not remove the root. It just breaks up the leaves and stems. Without removing the root, the weed will come back.



A better product to use would be the Weed Hound which gets the root out and doesn't take much more work. You also don't use electricity or need to have a drill to use it.



You'd have better success if you just reached down and grabbed the weed and pulled it by hand than using the Dandelion Terminator. You'll do the same thing, but sometimes you'll manage to get the root out too.

photo by Pauline Eccles

There are a lot of things you can do to your lawn that will cost you little or no money and will have a big effect. All of them have to do with proper mowing and watering.

Lawn Mowing Tips

Mow High

Raise the deck of your mower so your grass blades are 3-4" high after you cut. There are many benefits for doing this that will help keep your grass healthier and weed free.



We all learned about photosynthesis in school. It is the process by which green plants convert light energy into chemical energy. Grass uses water and sunlight to convert carbon dioxide into carbohydrates that are used for growth. Photosynthesis is accomplished through the blade of the grass. The chlorophyll in the blades of the grass absorb the sunlight to perform photosynthesis. The more surface area in the blades, the more photosynthesis can occur.



Tall grass also helps shade the soil to prevent water from evaporating too quickly. Blocking the sun also helps prevent weed seeds from germinating and thriving. By shading the soil, the lawn will choke out a lot of weeds.



On golf courses and other sports fields where they are concerned about performance of the game, they need to cut the grass short in some areas. Most people don't need to worry about this in their lawns. If you really want to have a putting green on your lawn, you're going to have to work as hard as the turf managers do to keep it healthy.

Don't bag your clippings

If you leave your grass clippings on the lawn, you will be returning nutrients and moisture to your lawn. Mulching your clippings can return up to 20% of the nitrogen your lawn needs. The clippings will feed the organisms in your soil which in turn will provide your lawn with organic matter and nutrients. Be sure not to leave clumps of grass. If necessary go over the clumps to cut them further and disperse them. Clumps in your lawn can damage your lawn. If you frequently have to deal with clumps, you might need to mow your lawn more often.



Some people worry that this might cause thatch to build up in the lawn. This is not the case. The material in the blades decomposes quickly. Thatch is usually a result of too much fertilizer.



Another benefit is that more and more communities no longer allow grass clippings to be collected with normal household trash. This is true for a number of towns in New Jersey. Not having to deal with the mess of emptying a heavy bag full of clippings is also a plus.

Mulch mow your leaves in the fall

In the fall, instead of raking and bagging your leaves, you can just go over them with your mower to mulch them into the lawn. This will provide your lawn with some valuable nutrients and organic matter.

Never cut more than 1/3 the length of the blade

If you leave your grass uncut for too long and remove more than one third of the blade, you will stress your lawn and stunt or slow it's growth, including the roots. This will also keep your grass clippings from clumping. This may mean you have to mow more frequently at certain times of the year. If this is a problem, you might want to consider reseeding your lawn with slower growing, dwarf-type grass seed.

Never mow wet grass

Wet grass clumps more easily and can promote diseases to spread. Wet grass also doesn't cut as well and can leave the tips of your grass blades damaged and torn.

Keep your lawn mower blade sharp

A sharp blade produces a cleaner cut that heals quicker. If your mower blade is not sharp, you tear the grass and the tips will start to brown, leaving your lawn looking unhealthy, make it more vulnerable to disease and stunt it's growth. You should sharpen your blade once or twice a season depending how often you mow.



You may also want to consider a reel mower. They cut the grass with a scissor action. Many professional turf managers use expensive gas powered reel mowers to give their lawns that manicured look.

Mow in different directions

Years ago, when I first had to learn how to mow a lawn, my neighbor told me that I should mow in two directions each time I mow. I never really looked into it, I just did it. Recently, I've been reading about why this should be done. Mowing the same way each time will help the grass stand more erect instead because it's not dealing with the large forces from mowing in the same way each time. It seems you can alternate directions every other mowing instead of essentially mowing twice each time. In areas of my lawn where I can't really do this, the grass does look a bit flatter so I guess my neighbor was right.

Lawn Watering Tips

Proper lawn watering is one of the simplest things you can do to enhance the look of your lawn.

In the northeast, rain provides most of the water your lawn needs in the spring and fall. When the weather gets hotter and rainfall drops, you'll want to water your lawn more to keep it from going dormant. These tips may result in slightly more or slightly less water usage depending on your current schedule.

Water Deeply and Infrequently

Watering your grass when it needs it and only how much it needs it will help minimize weeds as well as help your lawn become more drought tolerant buy encouraging the roots to grow deeper.

I have written a more in-depth post on how and when to water your lawn which I suggest you read.

Water in the early morning

It's not good for plants, including your grass to have their leaves stay wet. This can promote diseases from fungus. When you water in the early morning, the blades will dry as the sun comes out.

You'll also lose less water to evaporation as the water will have time to soak into the soil before the sun comes up.